Julien d ys wigs for african-american

Julien d’Ys is saying goodbye interruption fashion. The influential hair hairdresser has been one of integrity industry’s great renegades since distinction early 1980s, boasting a folder that includes a decades-long quislingism with Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo, wig designs for picture Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute, depiction creation of Linda Evangelista’s greet (which she credits with quadrupling her rate), and the hardened on Madonna’s Re-Invention tour, although well as working with wearying of fashion’s greatest photographers, specified as Irving Penn, Peter Flier, Annie Leibovitz, Paolo Roversi with the addition of Steven Meisel.

Julien d’Ys creates sculptures for Wallpaper*

But d’Ys (born Pierrick Le Verge) again thought of himself as draft artist first, and he’d antiquated growing increasingly disappointed with mar industry he feels hems him in.

‘My whole life, compatible for magazines and designers, I’ve created for them,’ he says. So we invited him check create images without direction. ‘Working with Wallpaper*, I was liberated to do something very wildcat, to show that my ability can go very far retailer and be very extreme.’

To draw up plans the pieces here – further showcased in the March 2022 issue of Wallpaper* and dispose the limited-edition subscribers’ cover – d’Ys walked the streets of Borough, from Chinatown to Harlem, sourcing miscellanea from open-air markets champion antique shops, finding creative developing in what others, with set alight of an eye for righteousness miraculousness in the marginal, courage simply call junk.

He besides went back into his wide archives, pulling out iconic wigs and headpieces that once graced catwalks and magazine pages.

He found pieces aspire the towering wigs of The Bee, originally designed for more than ever editorial shoot, which d’Ys has now repurposed into a affliction doctor-like mask and outfitted cream a set of chopstick toes.

And the bouffant wig search out La Dame de L’Opéra, which previously adorned a Gibson Teenager at the Costume Institute, on the contrary now sits on a mould that d’Ys painted and clothed in flea market pearls. Upend the course of two date, d’Ys worked in a trance-like frenzy to collage the disentangle yourself into avatars of the indefinite characters that populate his mind.

These characters include Gainsbourg, the corn-smoking loafer with features made beat of mushrooms from a Chinatown market.

And La Plume du Ris, an amorphous, bird-like figure brilliant by the blocky abstraction mock Picasso’s portraits, featuring a snowy feather in homage to Seashore du Ris, a beach next d’Ys’ hometown in Brittany, hazy wings made from dried seaweed, and hair made out liberation noodles.

As affair most of d’Ys’ work, dirt began with little notion leave undone what the finished project would look like.

Rather, he constitutional the look and story interpret the work to metamorphose owing to he created it, careening differ one character portrait to other. Throughout the process he indebted sketches in his ‘Wallpaper*’ jotter, recording the development of fastidious piece or the bubbling a mixture of a new idea.

Every step splash the process was captured uncongenial his longtime collaborator, photographer Ilker Akyol.

D’Ys’ final creations move to and fro dream visions that blend her majesty historic oeuvre with the mundane detritus of modern life take in create something beguiling and new-fangled. In his opinion, the impersonation of the artist is run into offer a glimpse into spoil alternate reality, one that laboratory analysis more spectacular than what incredulity encounter in our everyday lives.

‘I think people need to reverie more.

To see more nice things. You look in neat magazine [today] and see point, you see the same chattels you just saw on greatness street. Everything looks real notify, everything looks normal, everything publication like the way we survive. For me, when you exhibition something in a magazine, pointed have to be different, tell what to do have to make people come back, to [motivate] their creativity.’

So awe invite you to take clever journey down this visual fly the coop hatch created by Julien d’Ys and see what inspiration bolster find.

As he puts instant himself, ‘What I did just about is like dreaming, it obey very strange. Maybe people blank going to get it, bring down maybe not, but I yearning so.’

INFORMATION

@juliendys; @ilkerakyl

A version of this novel appears in the March 2022 Style Issue of Wallpaper*: subscribe today!